History
Two hundred sixty square miles. Seven thousand people. No stoplights.
Two hundred sixty square miles. Seven thousand people. No stoplights.
Those are the basics for Molokai, Hawaii’s fifth-largest island — and one of its least developed. While neighboring Lanai, recently bought by software mogul Larry Ellison, has been buzzing with construction, Molokai’s biggest resort shut its doors five years ago after opposition to its plans for a luxury subdivision.
Those are the basics for Molokai, Hawaii’s fifth-largest island — and one of its least developed. While neighboring Lanai, recently bought by software mogul Larry Ellison, has been buzzing with construction, Molokai’s biggest resort shut its doors five years ago after opposition to its plans for a luxury subdivision.
We got more adventure than we bargained for, in a good way.
We got more adventure than we bargained for, in a good way.
According to the Hawaii Tourism Authority, fewer than 54,000 vacationers visited Molokai last year; four times that many went to Maui last month.
According to the Hawaii Tourism Authority, fewer than 54,000 vacationers visited Molokai last year; four times that many went to Maui last month.
The absence of Waikiki-like comforts is part of why National Geographic Traveler a few years back rated Molokai one of the best islands in the world. “It seems,” the magazine wrote, “like old Hawaii.”
The absence of Waikiki-like comforts is part of why National Geographic Traveler a few years back rated Molokai one of the best islands in the world. “It seems,” the magazine wrote, “like old Hawaii.”
And even though the 2008 resort closure also shuttered several restaurants and the island’s sole movie theater, Molokai is hardly devoid of things to do. It still boasts a macadamia nut farm, beaches and valleys … plenty to keep a family entertained, I reckoned.
And even though the 2008 resort closure also shuttered several restaurants and the island’s sole movie theater, Molokai is hardly devoid of things to do. It still boasts a macadamia nut farm, beaches and valleys … plenty to keep a family entertained, I reckoned.
As our turboprop from nearby Honolulu descended over Molokai, the lack of development was striking. “This place looks like it must have when Captain Cook showed up,” I told my wife as we drove the short distance to the western coast. There were no buildings above two stories; in fact, the tallest things we saw on the island were the hundreds of Norfolk pines that were first brought here in the 19th century.
As our turboprop from nearby Honolulu descended over Molokai, the lack of development was striking. “This place looks like it must have when Captain Cook showed up,” I told my wife as we drove the short distance to the western coast. There were no buildings above two stories; in fact, the tallest things we saw on the island were the hundreds of Norfolk pines that were first brought here in the 19th century.
There were few other visitors to enjoy the view; most units at our timeshare complex were unoccupied.
There were few other visitors to enjoy the view; most units at our timeshare complex were unoccupied.
We whiled away a few hours at Dixie’s Beach, named for a fishing sampan that ran aground in a 1916 storm. The bowl-shaped little cove is sheltered from the strong currents along other West end beaches; there’s also ample shade.
We whiled away a few hours at Dixie’s Beach, named for a fishing sampan that ran aground in a 1916 storm. The bowl-shaped little cove is sheltered from the strong currents along other West end beaches; there’s also ample shade.
After a swim and picnic, we headed back to Maunaloa and the Big Wind Kite Factory — more of a shop, really, proffering handmade kites, Balinese gongs, delicate shell jewelry and books about Hawaiian history. Proprietor Jon Socher, a grizzled, Lear-like presence, came here from Los Angeles in 1976 and four years later, opened the kite shop.
After a swim and picnic, we headed back to Maunaloa and the Big Wind Kite Factory — more of a shop, really, proffering handmade kites, Balinese gongs, delicate shell jewelry and books about Hawaiian history. Proprietor Jon Socher, a grizzled, Lear-like presence, came here from Los Angeles in 1976 and four years later, opened the kite shop.
Today, three generations of his family live on the fish-shaped island, which was originally a haven for cattle, sugar cane and pineapple farming before a Singapore company in the 1980s took control of Molokai Ranch with hopes of building a tourism economy.
Today, three generations of his family live on the fish-shaped island, which was originally a haven for cattle, sugar cane and pineapple farming before a Singapore company in the 1980s took control of Molokai Ranch with hopes of building a tourism economy.
One also has to think that Molokai’s unofficial nickname of “Leprosy Island” hasn’t helped the tourist trade. From 1866 to 1969, Hawaiian law banished thousands of people suffering from the disfiguring skin condition (properly known as Hansen’s disease) to the remote Kalaupapa peninsula on Molokai’s north coast. Today, with the disease curable, Kalaupapa is a national park, though the state maintains a small army of staffers to care for the few longtime patients who have chosen to remain.
One also has to think that Molokai’s unofficial nickname of “Leprosy Island” hasn’t helped the tourist trade. From 1866 to 1969, Hawaiian law banished thousands of people suffering from the disfiguring skin condition (properly known as Hansen’s disease) to the remote Kalaupapa peninsula on Molokai’s north coast. Today, with the disease curable, Kalaupapa is a national park, though the state maintains a small army of staffers to care for the few longtime patients who have chosen to remain.
Yet, as we drove around the island, I kept noticing hand-lettered signs assailing plans to privatize beaches or build an undersea power cable to Oahu. And island environmentalists rejoiced earlier this year when Molokai Ranch spiked a wind farm that a San Francisco company wanted to build. In the tug-of-war between preservation and progress that every community must wage, the people of Molokai seem to have chosen their side.
Yet, as we drove around the island, I kept noticing hand-lettered signs assailing plans to privatize beaches or build an undersea power cable to Oahu. And island environmentalists rejoiced earlier this year when Molokai Ranch spiked a wind farm that a San Francisco company wanted to build. In the tug-of-war between preservation and progress that every community must wage, the people of Molokai seem to have chosen their side.
Back to the land
Back to the land
The island’s hotel woes also predate the 2008 Molokai Ranch shutdown. Seven years earlier, the 140-room Kaluakoi Hotel and Golf Course was closed by Japanese owners who’d taken over from Sheraton. The abandoned property sits not far from the Kepuhi Beach condos, where our condo is.
The island’s hotel woes also predate the 2008 Molokai Ranch shutdown. Seven years earlier, the 140-room Kaluakoi Hotel and Golf Course was closed by Japanese owners who’d taken over from Sheraton. The abandoned property sits not far from the Kepuhi Beach condos, where our condo is.
As we strolled home for dinner, a large banyan tree was alive with the songs of hundreds of birds. Molokai, it struck me, is a place one comes to fish or hunt, hike or paddle — mai tai bars not included. “I could see myself living here,” I thought. “Buy a Jeep or a pickup truck. Back to the land.”
As we strolled home for dinner, a large banyan tree was alive with the songs of hundreds of birds. Molokai, it struck me, is a place one comes to fish or hunt, hike or paddle — mai tai bars not included. “I could see myself living here,” I thought. “Buy a Jeep or a pickup truck. Back to the land.”
Our flight didn’t leave until afternoon, so we decided to see as much of Molokai as we could — starting with nearby Papohaku Beach. Papohaku’s three-mile strand of white stacks up against any of the most beautiful beach, especially when you have it all to yourself.
Our flight didn’t leave until afternoon, so we decided to see as much of Molokai as we could — starting with nearby Papohaku Beach. Papohaku’s three-mile strand of white stacks up against any of the most beautiful beach, especially when you have it all to yourself.
Then it was off to the central town of Kualapu’u and the coffee plantation. Java was first planted here in the 1980s, and at its peak, the Coffees of Hawaii operation covered some 600 acres. When the island’s economy began to sputter, a Stockton developer and a group of coffee growers from Manteca took over and are credited with keeping the company alive, but today the plantation has closed.
Then it was off to the central town of Kualapu’u and the coffee plantation. Java was first planted here in the 1980s, and at its peak, the Coffees of Hawaii operation covered some 600 acres. When the island’s economy began to sputter, a Stockton developer and a group of coffee growers from Manteca took over and are credited with keeping the company alive, but today the plantation has closed.
Earthy, earnest locals
Earthy, earnest locals
A short stroll through koa and ironwood trees leads to the Kalaupapa overlook, the tiny community wedged between soaring cliffs and tousled sea. A friend who’s been to the former leper colony calls it one of the most profoundly sad places he’s ever been, but from that distant height it looked lovely.
A short stroll through koa and ironwood trees leads to the Kalaupapa overlook, the tiny community wedged between soaring cliffs and tousled sea. A friend who’s been to the former leper colony calls it one of the most profoundly sad places he’s ever been, but from that distant height it looked lovely.
What once was.......
What once was.......
